Frozen broccoli isn’t sexy or exciting, but it is convenient, nutritious, and cheap. But nutritious food is only beneficial if it is consumed, and it can be challenging to convince oneself to consume any broccoli at all, especially the frozen stuff. The main problem is one of texture; when cooked improperly, the broccoli steams into oblivion, without browning or crisping on the edges.
The problem, explains cookbook author Liz Moody, is one of hydrophobia (though she does not use that term). When you coat frozen florets and stems in cooking oil, you repel and trap the melting water on the broccoli, giving it nowhere to go. This water then steams the vegetable and prevents it from getting crispy.
Moody’s solution is simple: Just omit the oil, at least at first. By roasting the broccoli naked, without any cooking fat, the moisture can evaporate and the florets can brown and crisp. Once you’ve reached your desired level of browning, then you can toss the broccoli in a little fat and season it however you see fit, before popping it back in the oven for a few more minutes.
Consider dropping the temperature
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Moody uses a scorching 400℉ for fast, super crispy results, but this method works at any temperature. (Usually, when I roast fresh broccoli, I set the oven at a lower, more sensual 325℉, and you can certainly do the same with frozen.) Again, the important part is omitting the oil until the water has evaporated and the broccoli browns; this happens more slowly at lower temps, but it also allows for more even cooking. Instead of super browned—nearly burnt—edges paired with not-quite-done stalks, you get an evenly roasted vegetable with concentrated, consistent flavor. (You don’t even have to wait for the oven to preheat; toss the frozen florets in the pan and let them warm with the oven.)
Use a wire rack
Moody roasts her brocc on a sheet pan lined with parchment, but I prefer an elevated approach. Air flow helps drive off moisture, and placing the broccoli on a wire rack set inside a sheet pan allows more air to circulate around the vegetable, speeding up the process and allowing for more even cooking.
How to roast frozen broccoli
Cook times and temps will vary depending on your oven. My oven has a convection setting, which I use when roasting vegetables because, again, the goal is to drive off moisture as quickly as possible. At Moody’s suggested 400℉, it took my frozen florets about 20 minutes to get brown and crispy on the edges; at my suggested temp of 325℉ (with the convection setting in effect), it took about a half hour (plus preheat time) for small florets, about 35 for medium-sized pieces, and 40-45 minutes for larger ones. If you’re using an air fryer, drop the temp to at least 325℉, and start checking after 10 minutes.
Once the broccoli is all roasty toasty, with browned, but not burnt tips, it’s time to get a little fat involved. Drizzle with olive oil (or duck fat, or bacon grease, etc.), season with salt and whatever other flavorings you desire, then pop it back in for a final five minutes or so. Enjoy promptly, with the pride that comes along with stopping the sog.