Eating Trash With ClaireThe series where Claire Lower convinces you to transform your kitchen scraps into something edible and deliciousWe are nearing the end of citrus season, and some of my clementines, oranges, and hybrid beauties are starting to taste a little lackluster. Sure, I can still get a cheap five-pound bag of clementines, but there has been a noticeable decline in their quality as we reach the end of winter. Some of the little citrus fruits are bright and juicy, but some are too hard, too dry, or just not very flavorful. This is obviously a very disappointing situation to bite into, but if you feel like tossing the remaining subpar segments in the compost, pause—collect yourself—then toss them into a baking dish instead.
Roasting bland, watery produce gives it flavor. This is true for out-of-season tomatoes, and it is true for almost-out-of-season clementines. Blasting citrus segments in the oven concentrates the flavors that are there, and adds new flavors by way of browning. The fruit gets a little candied, a little saucy, and a whole lot more snackable.
You don’t really need a recipe, though you can certainly find a few if you do a quick search. Ruth Reichl roasts her clementines in a pan, but I prefer the slower, hands-off oven approach. All you have to do is separate the segments, pull off the white stringy bits, and toss with just enough olive oil to coat in an oven-safe dish. You can also add 1/4-1/2 teaspoon of honey or maple syrup per whole fruit for extra sweetness, some chili flakes for heat, or some herbs for complexity. Sprinkle everything with sea salt, then pop it in a 400℉-oven for 35-45 minutes, until the fruit is bubbling and browned at the edges.
Let cool, then spoon into yogurt, over ricotta toast, or onto a salad. Roasted citrus fruits also make a great addition to a cheese plate, or a fine counterpoint to a slab of salty, broiled or braised meat—but don’t be surprised if you find yourself eating them like candy.
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